How to Convert a Normal Cycle into an Electric Cycle
The full build video for this conversion — the steps below follow it in the same order.
What you need before starting
- 24V E-Bike Conversion Kit: Includes 24V DC motor, motor controller, twist throttle, key switch, e-brake levers, headlight/horn module, charging port, secondary freewheel, mounting brackets, longer rear axle, spacer, and motor chain
- Batteries: 2x 12V Lead-Acid batteries (connected in series to make a 24V system)
- Power & Charging: 24V AC-to-DC battery charger
- Mounting Accessories: Heavy-duty rear bicycle rack, battery storage box, cardboard sheets (for shock/short insulation), and nut-and-bolt hardware
- Optional Add-ons: Magnet-based digital bicycle speedometer/odometer and extra storage box
The full build video for this conversion — the steps below follow it in the same order.
Install the extended axle and dual freewheel
Remove the rear wheel and replace the stock rear axle with the longer axle provided in the kit. Slide a spacer onto the axle and mount the secondary freewheel alongside the original pedal freewheel so both the pedal chain and motor chain can operate independently without binding.
Mount the rear rack and motor
Bolt a heavy-duty rear rack onto the bicycle frame above the rear wheel using a nut-and-bolt system. Fix the 24V electric motor onto the mounting bracket on the frame and line up its drive sprocket with the secondary freewheel using the provided motor chain.
Prepare and wire the 24V battery pack
Place two 12V lead-acid batteries side-by-side inside an insulated storage box lined with cardboard sheets for shockproofing and short protection. Wire the positive terminal of the first battery to the negative terminal of the second battery to create a 24V series connection, leaving the remaining main positive and negative leads to run to the controller.
Install the controller and key switch
Fix the motor controller inside a protective metal cage or bracket on the rear rack. Mount the main key switch using a custom nut-and-bolt bracket on the handlebar or frame, and wire the battery, key switch, charging port, and motor connections into their corresponding controller plugs.
Replace handlebar controls and e-brake levers
Remove the stock brake levers and handles from the handlebar. Install the e-brake levers from the kit, running their cut-off signal wires down the frame to the controller so the motor immediately stops when either brake is pulled. Mount the twist throttle and the horn/light switch onto the handlebar.
Install the optional speedometer and clean up wiring
Attach the digital speedometer display to the handlebar. Mount its magnetic sensor on the front fork and affix the corresponding magnet onto a wheel spoke so it calculates speed and distance. Zip-tie all wiring neatly along the bicycle frame away from moving parts.
Charge and test the e-bike
Plug the 24V charger into the installed charging port on the controller and connect it to a wall socket until the LED indicator turns green. Turn the key switch to the ON position, disengage the brakes, and twist the throttle to verify smooth motor engagement.
If something does not work
Motor spins but cycle does not move: Check chain alignment and ensure the secondary freewheel is installed facing the right direction to catch the drive chain.
Throttle fails to respond: Turn the key switch ON and ensure e-brake levers are fully released, as pulled brakes cut motor power instantly.
Low power or short range: Charge both 12V batteries for 5-6 hours and check series wiring (positive to negative) to maintain full 24V output.
Charger stays green on empty battery: Inspect the charging port wiring and battery fuse for loose connections or a broken circuit.
Speedometer shows 0 km/h: Adjust the spoke magnet closer to the fork sensor so it detects each wheel revolution properly.